Construction is the same for wool as for cotton gabardine; a 45- or 63—degree twill. These weaves give the characteristic, single~diagonal lines noted on the face of the cloth. Material is piece—dyed and used in men‘s and women’s wear. Combinations of yarn as to color and cast may be used, as in the case of covert cloth. In this event, the yarn should be yarn-dyed.° It is also possible to use the stock—dyed method, Because of the twist in the yarn and the texture, the cloth wears very well and outlasts similar materials used for the same purposes. Weight renges from 8 to 14 ounces per yard, clear finish is given. Cotton yarn is often found as the warp structure in the cloth.
Cotton gabardine is made with carded or combed yarn. The twill line is usually to the left if made with all single-ply yarn, and to the right when ply-warp and single-filling are used. The cloth may be mercerized, napped on the back, made water·repellent, preshrunk; usually bleached ori, dyed with sulphur or vat colors.
Uses include bathing trunks, raincoats, jackets, riding habit, uniform fabric, skirts, slacks, sportswear of many types.
Rayon gabardine simulates the cotton fabric and has about the same uses.